surfing in bikini - one dream game true
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it. And its always worth it even if u get only one single wave, its always makes u happy and pleased. Even if the wave is small and easy to catch makes me happy. One day i paddled out although it seemed so flat, but i still went. Made promise to myself to go out every day even if its just for paddle. And on that day i got every single wave i tried, they were small, slow, easy....but that was all i needed to be happy. Same day i was surfing out there with sharks, i didn't see it but beach was closed and surf patrol gave us warning that big shark cruising around Byron. Shark is not the only creature I've been surfing with. Seen dolphins so close that could touch them but was too scared, been surfing with them on the same wave many times and been bitten by jellyfish. All this makes me respect ocean more and more. How much it can give and how much it can take.

another day in paradise
sunset surf sessions
Its hard to imagine that Christmas coming, its hard to imagine that its winter back home, hard to imagine snow, hard to imagine to be could. Its warm here, really warm. Some days i refuse to wear more clothes then bikini, some days i have to spend all day in water, some days i drink 4 litres water....its paradise its true but even here its raining, and its raining a lot...this year is worst year like they say. never rained before that much on this time of year....it means i still haven't seen proper Australian summer
we call it backyard
Byron is perfect place to stop for few minutes and think....Its perfect place to do nothing. Doing nothing is the most tiresome job in the world because u can not quit and rest. I need power naps during the day, i need long sleeps during the night and I'm still tired. But like Oscar Wilde says do nothing at all is the most difficult thing in the world, the most difficult and most intellectual. So i have right to be tired, i have good excuse for that, I'm just being intellectual.
Most of my time I'm doing nothing and being intellectual but i do have a job as well. I was hunting job for two weeks without any results but then my landlord Andy came and gave me his friend's number. Since then I'm professional dish washing specialist in fancy restaurant. I do not work full time and my weekends are always off, chefs in kitchen are so chill, vibe is perfect i even don't feel I'm working. Boys in kitchen like to say I'm the most well treated kitchen hand in the world, i get feed of these fancy food every day and i can chill around if its not busy. Easy life!
little frog at work
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